Easy Pace Russia: Spilt Blood, Red Caviar and Peterhof

StPete20B_WMAfter this morning’s relaxed start and tour of Peter and Paul Fortress, the birthplace of St. Petersburg, the Insight Vacations‘ motor coach, piloted by “Alexander the Great,” makes a couple of whistle stops outside two of the city’s most iconic houses of worship: The Church of Our Savior on the Spilt Blood and St. Issac’s Cathedral.

Our Savior on the Spilt Blood, with its striking edifice, is a memorial church that was built on the very spot where, in March 1881, Emperor Alexander II was assassinated — after six previously unsuccessful attempts — by a terrorist bomb that exploded while he was making his way back to the Winter Palace after presiding over a military parade. 

Construction of St. Issac’s Cathedral, on the other hand, commenced without any blood shed prior to the first pine log pile being driven deep into the marshy soil. Designed by Auguste Montferrand, a French architect, the cathedral is a mammoth religious building at 10,000 square meters, crowned by a 25 meter gilded dome — the largest of its kind in the world — with an interior that can accommodate 14,000 standing worshipers and accented by vibrant green columns chiseled out of nearly 16 metric tons of Ural Mountain malachite.

Peterhof4_WMGennady, Insight’s GQ-worthy tour director/concierge, grants our party of 23 time off for lunch — and, perhaps, good behavior — to sample some regional fare around St. Issac’s Square.

We’re off the clock for an hour, and fellow photojournalist Orna O’Reilly and I, guests of Insight on this Easy Pace Russia journey, find the perfect spot to pick up the cutlery and our cameras.

Sitting right around the corner, in the shadows of St. Issac’s along Malaya Morskaya St., is Schastye, or Home of Happiness, a chain of cafe/bakery/bars that showcase an oversized, piping-hot Ukrainian cheese bun served alongside our fave Russian delicacy, red caviar. Need I say more.

EPR_D2_12C_WMAccording to Gulya, Insight’s local expert, “Peter I, the hands-on Tsar-turned-Emperor, left absolutely nothing to chance when he envisioned St. Petersburg.” She adds, “Employing the very best architects and artisans of the day, not to mention the deep coffers of the Romanov family, he set out to create a city along the Baltic Sea to rival the well-established capitals of Western Europe.”

And no other place in Greater St. Petersburg is more imperial, more spectacular, more over-the-top than the Great One‘s early 18th century Summer Palace: Peterhof.

Most tour operators deliver their clients to Peterhof via motor coach, spending needless time in slow-moving traffic until finally reaching their destination. But, with Insight, our party of 23 is treated to a speedy and scenic hydrofoil ride across the Gulf of Finland — standard mode on the Easy Pace Russia itinerary — where we see Peterhof come into view well before we glide to a full stop, disembark on the pier and quickly enter the imperial grounds that were modeled after Versailles.

“It was Peter the Great’s personal challenge to transform the gloomy northern landscape into a Russian Versailles,” Gulya intones, “and he realized his dream, and then some, in just a decade.”

Set among 1,000 hectares of land in the suburbs of St. Petersburg, Peterhof, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is filled with well-manicured parks and gardens, numerous lakes and ponds, five palaces containing thousands of works of priceless paintings, sculptures and applied arts, and countless water features, like the Grand Cascade fronting the Great Palace, with its three waterfalls, 75 fountains and more than 200 bronze statues, bas-reliefs and other ornamentations.

Lens caps off, let’s fill up our digital memory cards for family and friends back home.

Peterhof5_WMCamera batteries now spent and memory cards maxed, we board the Insight motor coach for the easy-pace ride back into St. Petersburg proper aided by several shots of Mother Russia’s favorite tipple, vodka, graciously offered and expertly poured by Gennady, Insight’s tour director, concierge and, who knew, barista. Na zdorovye!

For complete information on Insight’s three itineraries to Russia, as well as more than 100 other premium and luxury-escorted routes around Europe, just click HERE, or call toll-free (888) 680-1241, or contact your travel agent.

Care to join me for dinner and a show? Then I’ll see you this evening when we’ll dine on more traditional Russian fare and be entertained by a fab group of professional folk singers, dancers and musicians down at the Officers Assembly House in the heart of St. Petersburg. Did I mention that I scored front row seats?

©The Palladian Traveler

Borsalino w/ props SMALL | ©Tom Palladio Images

Note: The Palladian Traveler’s participation in this journey was supported by Insight Vacations, which did not review or approve this article before publication.



Written by The Palladian Traveler

Tom traded his hometown St. Louis Cardinals' baseball cap in the United States for a Borsalino and he now hangs his "capello" in the Puglia region of southeastern Italy. A veteran print and broadcast journalist, with well-worn passports that have got him into and out of 50 countries and counting, Tom fell in love with the "Bel Paese" years ago. As he notes, "I'm inspired by the beauty I find in all things that are very, very old, and reliving history, or at least meandering along the travertine and cobblestone that were laid down over a thousand years ago and just looking up and marveling at what occupies the space still today, really gets my 'Vespa' running." Tom has a good eye behind the lens and is a graphic storyteller, but he'll let you decide as he keeps his camera batteries fully charged and the posts flowing from his creative hideaway in the hills overlooking Ostuni. You can also follow his dispatches via TravelingBoy.com and Anthology Magazine Ireland.


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