La Befana: What a Way to Go | ©Tom Palladio ImagesWhile most households that celebrate the Christmas season have already taken down the ornaments and thrown away the tree, and, most importantly, begun wondering how they’re going to pay down the credit-card debt, here in Italy the holiday spirit continues, at least for one more day.

Today is the Feast of the Epiphany, January 6th, and it’s a national holiday of religious importance around the Bel Paese.

La Befana: What a Way to Go | ©Tom Palladio ImagesThis day marks the occasion when three wise men from the east followed a bright star in the night sky across the desert.

Finally arriving at a manger next to an inn in the little town of Bethlehem, the Magi honored the newborn King, the baby Jesus, with gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh.

That’s the religious significance of the Epiphany.

La Befana: What a Way to Go | ©thepalladiantraveler.com
The folkloric take here in Italy is La Befana, an ancient witch, draped in rags, who flies around on a old-fashioned broom on the eve of the Epiphany bearing gifts of sweets for the nice children and lumps of coal for the naughty ones.

The old witch works hard making her appointed rounds, just like Babbo Natale (Santa Claus) did on Christmas Eve. The only difference between the two gift givers is that Santa got cookies and milk for his efforts.

And La Befana? Well, she could only look forward to being burnt in effigy in town squares all across Italy when the sun went down last night.

La Befana: What a Way to Go | ©thepalladiantraveler.comNow, I’m a bit too old to believe in La Befana — Santa Claus, that’s another thing — but there was a loud knock on my door early this morning that woke me from a deep sleep. When I finally answered no one was there, but lying on the welcome mat was a small bag with a handwritten note attached to it that read: For the Palladian Traveler.

What do you suppose was inside?

A sweet or a lump?

©The Palladian Traveler

Borsalino w/ props SMALL | ©Tom Palladio Images
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Written by The Palladian Traveler

Tom traded his hometown St. Louis Cardinals' baseball cap in the United States for a Borsalino and he now hangs his "capello" in the Puglia region of southeastern Italy. A veteran print and broadcast journalist, with well-worn passports that have got him into and out of 50 countries and counting, Tom fell in love with the "Bel Paese" years ago. As he notes, "I'm inspired by the beauty I find in all things that are very, very old, and reliving history, or at least meandering along cobblestone streets that were laid down over a thousand years ago and just looking up and marveling at what occupies the space still today, really gets my 'Vespa' running." Tom has a good eye behind the lens and is a graphic storyteller, but he'll let you decide as he keeps his camera batteries fully charged and the posts flowing from his creative hideaway in the hills overlooking Ostuni. You can also follow his dispatches along the cobblestone via TravelingBoy.com.

12 comments

  1. Had to be sweets, Tom. We still have Christmas decorations up, although I’m taking many of them down today in preparation for my trip to Arizona on Thursday to visit my parents. I think I’ll be happy to get away from the frigid temperatures, too. -17F with -44 wind chill today is a bit much!

    Happy Epiphany!

    janet

  2. Interesting.. My coworker passed around sesame candy this morning in celebration of the Three Kings Day. He explained that traditionally Puerto Ricans celebrate this day in honor of the three wise men, and see it as an even bigger gift-giving occasion than Christmas. Funny how people across oceans and cultures can share these traditions and values.
    And this is just a hunch, but I’m thinking you got sweets!

  3. Thanks for your story of the Befana. At home we always celebrated Christmas with gifts. Many yeast ago as I was a small child we visited my grandmother in Italy on Three Kings Day; she told us we should place a dish with polenta on the balcony for the donkey of the Kings (Re Magi) and wait until the next morning. The next day the polenta had gone and we found sweets, oranges and cookies as exchange.

  4. Great post Tom and interesting to hear more about the tradition of La Befana too as I’d never heard of it before I got here! In Venice they celebrate with a Befana regata with blokes dressed up as Befana rowing down the Grand Canal – its quite a sight although only a small regata! I hope you got sweets and not coal! ;o)

  5. I’m an Air Force brat and my mom, bless her, always immersed us into the culture of the place where we lived. When we lived in Vicenza, Italy, we always looked forward to the Befana market and her visit. We were Catholic, so we celebrated the Feast of the Epiphany at church. Now I live near Louisiana and King Cakes will soon make their appearance to get ready for Mardi Gras. I love all the cultural overlapping!

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