Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.comI’ll be the first to admit that a description of the trajectory of an assassin’s bullet is not the normal way to jumpstart a guided walking tour of a city, but this is Sarajevo after all, where images of wars past dot the landscape, and where the “band of merry media” and I — 18 intrepid travel writers and photographers invited by Insight Vacations (Insight) to sample a portion of its Bosnia and Dalmatian Riviera itinerary — are being schooled by a local expert.

Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.comJust a little over a century ago, June 28, 1914 to be exact, Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife Sofia, the Duchess of Hohenberg, were gunned down in broad daylight on a flagstoned street in the Stari Grad (Old Town) of Sarajevo by Gavrila Princip, a Bosnian Serb.

“Princip was a member of a six-person assassination team,” Dino, Insights’ thirtysomething local expert, explains, “dispatched to Sarajevo by the Black Hand, a secretive military society within the Army of the Kingdom of Serbia.”

Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.com
Dino continues his impromptu open-air lecture, “He stood in wait right here on the Latin Bridge until the royal motorcade passed by and then, rushing forward, he fired point blank.”

“The fatal shots from Princip’s pistol,” Dino pauses slightly for effect, “triggered the start of World War I, the so-called ‘war to end all wars’.”

Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.com
Moving quickly out of the historic line of fire, we make our way across the Miljacka River via the iconic Latin Bridge.

Passing by Sarajevo’s City Hall, the late 19th century storybook building highlighted by its prominent Neo-Moorish facade, we enter the heart and soul of the Old Town: the Baščaršija neighborhood.

Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.comHere, the centuries-old Ottoman bazaar, filled with mom-and-pop shops, is alive and well along its labyrinth of flagstone alleyways and intimate courtyards that provide the camera lens with an endless array of postcard-perfect, peekaboo scenes that are suitable for framing.

Baščaršija — repeat after me, bahsh-CHAR-shee-jah — means “main marketplace,” and started out in 1462 with a caravanserai (small inn) and several shops and reached its peak sometime during the 16th century when over 12,000 shops, featuring 80 different kinds of crafts, filled the space.

Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.com“The alleyways took their names from the kinds of crafts that were being made and showcased,” Dino tells us, “like Kazandžiluk, or Coppersmith Street,” as we pass by storefronts filled with polished copper items for sale, including pens made from brass bullet casings.

Over time, earthquakes, fires and wars reduced the old bazaar neighborhood to a fraction of what it used to be during its heyday, but it’s still Sarajevo’s main tourist area, especially around the Sebij, an ornamental, gazebo-like water fountain smack dab in the middle of Pigeon Square.

Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.com

Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.comThe Baščaršija is chock-full of artisan workshops, bric-a-brac storefronts, cafes, hookah bars, inviting little restaurants and Ottoman-era mosques, like the Gazi Husrev-beg, where a custodian awaits our arrival and ushers us all inside for a quiet look around.

“This mosque is considered the most important Islamic structure in the country and is one of the world’s finest examples of Ottoman architecture,” Dino informs us. “And, it was the very first mosque on the planet to receive electricity, installed back in 1898.”

Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.comThe Gazi Husrev-beg mosque takes its name from the 16th century provincial governor of Bosnia, who financed its construction in 1531.

Gazi Husrev-beg, the man, is widely considered Sarajevo’s greatest patron, as he bankrolled much of Sarajevo’s Old Town.

Even after his death, a living trust that he bequeathed the city nearly 500-years ago continues to work its magic even to this day.

Destination Dalmatian Riviera: Sarajevo | ©thepalladiantraveler.comDeparting the mosque, we exit through its courtyard where an ornate šadrvan (fountain) stands. Used daily to cleanse oneself before entering the grand Islamic house of worship, the sweet-tasting spring water is surprisingly drinkable.

Back out on the pedestrian-only flagstone alleyways, we cross over the symbolic demarcation line, where the cultures of the east and the west cross paths, and leave the confines of this atmospheric Ottoman neighborhood and head into the more modern bustle of the Austro-Hungarian side of Sarajevo.

Destination Dalmatian Riviera | ©thepalladiantraveler.comWhere to? Oh, just the absolute best coffee house in all of Sarajevo for an authentic cup of Bosnian Joe.

For complete information on Insight’s premium and luxury-escorted itineraries, including 113 journeys across Europe, just click HERE, or call toll free 1-888-680-1241, or contact your travel agent.

Join me in about 20 minutes, just around the corner, when you’ll hear the waiter ask me, “One lump, or two?”

©The Palladian Traveler

Borsalino w/ props SMALL | ©Tom Palladio Images

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Written by The Palladian Traveler

Tom traded his hometown St. Louis Cardinals' baseball cap in the United States for a Borsalino and he now hangs his "capello" in the Puglia region of southeastern Italy. A veteran print and broadcast journalist, with well-worn passports that have got him into and out of 50 countries and counting, Tom fell in love with the "Bel Paese" years ago. As he notes, "I'm inspired by the beauty I find in all things that are very, very old, and reliving history, or at least meandering along cobblestone streets that were laid down over a thousand years ago and just looking up and marveling at what occupies the space still today, really gets my 'Vespa' running." Tom has a good eye behind the lens and is a graphic storyteller, but he'll let you decide as he keeps his camera batteries fully charged and the posts flowing from his creative hideaway in the hills overlooking Ostuni. You can also follow his dispatches along the cobblestone via TravelingBoy.com.

6 comments

  1. What a compelling way to open the tour. It’s what everyone wants to know, after all, when they consider a visit to Sarajevo. Then on to the rest of the tumultuous history as well. Excellent.

    Like

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